Home Rehab Outdoor,  Outdoor,  Renew & Reuse

Let’s Build a Pool Deck!

That’s right, I BUILT a deck! I actually built a deck! I can hardly believe it! And, if I can build one, so can you! Last week, I shared with you that I decided to get a stock tank to use as a little backyard pool. I also shared that I hadn’t planned on getting a pool but got so excited when I saw so many Pinterest pins about stock tank pools that I just had to have one!

My little backyard pool!

Here is my little stock tank pool! I chose to get the poly one as opposed to a metal one because I had read stories about the metal ones rusting or leaking. For me, I thought it would be less stressful to just get a poly one.

I think I want a deck

Now that I had the pool, I thought about actually using it. One of my favorite ‘activities’, when I’m at a pool, is to sit on the side and dangle my legs in the water. That’s a bit hard to do on an above-ground pool without a deck. When researching stock tank pools both on Pinterest and Facebook, I saw a lot of pictures of decks that people had built around their tanks.

Some of the decks completely surrounded the pool. Since I’m not sure how I will ‘winter’ my pool, I didn’t think enclosing it with a deck would be the right choice for me. I wanted a deck just big enough to sit and maybe lay on. Also, if I was going to build a deck, I wanted to use the wood that I kept when our large deck was repaired a couple of years ago.

(*Disclaimer….As a reminder, I am not a licensed contractor, just a gal who loves DIY. All projects are done at your own risk. If you have questions or concerns about a project, please consult a licensed professional)

Supplies Used

  • 10 Tuff Block post holders
  • Ten 12″ x 12″ x 2″ concrete bricks
  • Three 4″ x 4″ x 8′ treated posts
  • Sixteen 2″ x 6″ x 8′ deck boards
  • Four 2″ x 4″ x 8′ boards
  • 6 Pallet slats
  • Eighteen 6″ x 6′ cedar fence boards
  • Eight 1″ x 3″ x 8′ boards
  • Two 1″ x 8″ x 8′ boards
  • 2″ x 6″ joist hangers
  • 2″ x 4″ joist hangers
  • 2 mending plates
  • 3″ deck screws
  • 2 1/2″ deck screws
  • 1 1/4″ screws
  • Kneeling pad
  • Tape measure
  • 2′ level
  • Small level
  • Clamps
  • Miter Saw
  • Jig Saw
  • Oscillating tool
  • Drill
  • Behr Transparent Stain
  • Preserva Wood
  • Paintbrush
  • 5 solar post lights

What supplies do I need?

After much thought, I decided to build a deck that would partially wrap around 2 sides of the deck. That design would give me the option of whether to leave the pool in place over the winter or move it to another location. Now that I knew approximately what size deck I would build, I looked at the wood that we on had on hand to see what supplies I still needed to buy.

As I looked at my wood supply, it seemed like I would have enough wood for the structure and decking. I pulled out the boards to get a good look. Several of them were rotten and/or split. They had been under the deck for 2 years and the ones at the bottom of the pile were covered in fungus. Hubby sprayed those off with the hose and we let them sit in the sun before I scrubbed and sanded them as I used them. I only had two 4′ posts so I would need to buy more. I’d also need post holders, screws, joist hangers, and additional wood if I decided to add skirting to the deck. I have all the tools & stains that I’ll need already on hand.

Before heading out to buy supplies, I did some research on how others built their decks and saw references to some post holders I hadn’t seen before. They are called Tuff Blocks and are made from recycled plastic. After hearing about Tuff Blocks, I researched their website for all the information on how to use them. I was surprised to hear that they have been around for 30 years! I had figured that I would be using those wickedly heavy concrete footings but when I saw this lightweight option that cost less than the concrete ones, I knew I’d be using them!

Let’s get started!

After deciding on the approximate size for the deck, each side around 8′ x 3′, I went supply shopping. I bought three 4″ x 4″ x 8′ treated posts at Home Depot and asked them to cut them in half. I wanted the deck to be the height of the pool and I wanted a little railing along the back of the deck. 4′ would be the right height for my design. I then picked up 10 Tuff Blocks at Lowes.

I also picked up screws and more of the 12″ x 12″ x 2″ concrete blocks that I used under the pool. I planned to use them as a base for the Tuff Blocks.

When I got home with the supplies, to get a visual of the area where the deck would be, I set the blocks on the ground and placed some of the posts in them.

Step 1 – Layout & base

Time to get going! I had a good idea for the layout of the deck so it was time to get building! To add stability to the blocks & posts, I decided to set the blocks on concrete bricks. I prepped the soil by leveling it and then tamping it down firmly then I set the blocks on the bricks. Oh, by the way, I bought a new miter saw too! I’ve had a 7 1/4″ one for years and it has worked great for SO many projects! However, I’ve been wanting a beefier one and since I was going to be cutting posts and 2 x 6 boards, it was time to get one! Using my new 10″ miter saw, I cut five 21″ sections of 4″ x 4″ posts. These were the ones that would be closest to the pool.

Step 2 – Framing

After I had the posts in place, it was time to frame the deck. I began on the outside edge. Since I was doing this project alone, I found clamps to be a necessity. I started with the center post on the left side of the deck. The length of the 2 x 6 was 8′. Balancing the board on my knee, I was able to clamp it to the post both under and on the top of the board. Using a small level to make sure the board was level, I secured the board using 3″ deck screws.

The next board was another 8′ one and I secured along the posts at the back of the deck it in the same fashion using clamps and 3″ deck screws. I have to say, it was challenging to hold these long boards while clamping them in place by myself. If you have a 2nd set of hands, this part will be easier. After the outside edges were done, I added the short boards on the ends of the deck. Before attaching the board closest to the pool, I screwed on a small wood block to one end. The block worked as another set of hands. I was able to rest the block on the connecting 2 x 6 to hold it in place while I clamped the other end to a post. Since there was not a post at the end of the board with the block, I used a joist hanger to attach it. Then I attached the last board to the center posts on the other side of the pool.

With the outer frame in place, I added two middle joists. I used joist hangers to attach these to the outer framing. The last part of the framing process was to add a diagonal joist close to the pool. Since this piece was cut at an angle, I decided to use a mending plate on each end to attach it to the main section of the framing. Once the outer frame was in place, I added several cross joists to provide additional support to the deck. I attached these with 3″ deck screws.

Since the blocks were just sitting on the concrete bricks, I wondered how stable the deck would be. When I researched the Tuff Blocks, their website stated: “Generally the post-joist bearers sit in the TuffBlock without requiring any fixing. If fixing is required, fix the block to the timber. As for the post staying upright; this is a function of the deck build itself. Your structures should be adequately designed and reinforced to ensure the posts are structurally sound and cross braced.” Even so, I wanted to make sure the frame was solid before going further. After the framing was complete, I tested its strength by pushing against it…..nothing moved! Yes!!

Step 3 – Stairs

When I bought supplies, I also bought 2 stair risers. You can see them in the picture above. I figured they would be easier to use than building stairs from scratch. After finishing the framing, though, I had a newfound sense of confidence and decided to build the stairs instead. Besides, I had all that old wood to use. So, I returned the risers. I researched how to build the stairs and it is essentially building a square box for each step.

Before starting on the step boxes, I attached a 2 x 6 to the front of the frame. This piece extends to meet the pool where I cut it at a 45-degree angle. I used 2 x 6 boards to build the step boxes. The first box is 36″ x 36″. the second is 36″ x 24″ , and the third is 36″ x 12″. Each step has a center support for strength. I placed the bottom step close to the frame on concrete bricks to prevent the wood from getting wet then stacked the remaining two steps on top of the first one. I used boards & screws to secure the steps to each other then attached the back of the staircase to boards that were screwed into the frame.

Initially, I thought I would use the 2 x 4 stair treads from our old stairs; however, the underside of many of the boards was pretty rotten. So, instead, I used 2 x 6 boards. I attached the treads using 2 1/2″ screws. While it wasn’t necessary, I used some old 1 x 8 painted boards from the old deck to ‘face’ out the front of the steps. I sanded both the painted boards and the 2 x 6 ones before installing.

Step 4 – Skirting

Before adding the decking, I enclosed the sides of the deck with cedar fence boards. Actually, a good friend of mine was visiting so she attached the cedar while I did the cutting. I used my miter saw for the cuts; she used 2 1/2″ screws to attach the boards along the top of the frame. As she was attaching them, we noticed that the bottom of the boards needed to be attached to something to keep them straight. I added a 2 x 4 toward the bottom of the posts to have something to secure the bottom of the cedar boards to.

Step 5 – Decking

Time to add the decking. As I mentioned, I was limited on wood so I had to be very careful how I laid out the decking. If I had attached the decking lengthwise, I would have run out of wood. So, instead, I laid it crosswise along both ends. In the center section, I decided to do a design that would maximize the pieces of wood that I had. I originally thought I would lay the wood in the centerpiece at a diagonal but was concerned that I might make some wrong cuts and run out of wood. I then thought that an offsetting pattern would not only be easier but require far fewer cuts!

To create the decking pattern, I started at the inside of each of the ends of the deck and worked my way to the outer edge of each end. I cut each piece just long enough to allow for cutting the curve along the pool. After cutting each piece, I sanded the wood, then laid it in place. When the boards for each side of the deck were cut, I focused on the centerpiece. After all the rough cuts done, it was time to cut the curve along the pool. While I had seen people attach their deck boards then cut the curve all at once, I decided to cut the curve on each board individually, followed by cutting around posts as needed.

To make the cuts for the posts, I created a pilot hole with my drill, then used a jigsaw to cut the remaining wood. To create the line for the curve, I used a curved piece of wood and then used the jigsaw to cut the curve. After cutting each curve, I sanded the raw edge and then set the board in place. When all the curve and post cuts were complete, I cut the length of the boards. I attached the deck boards using 3″ deck screws. I did have to add a few more cross supports under the small pieces of wood in the center section of the deck.

Cutting the deck boards took way more time than it would have if I had laid them lengthwise. But I would have run out of wood. As it was, I used almost all available wood that I had on hand.

The most stressful part of the decking was cutting the curve around the pool. Is it perfect? Nope. But, it’s pretty darn good! And look how these two center boards from the side sections matched up! I mean, come on!!!

Step 6 – Railing

Next up, adding a railing to the back of the deck. With the deck only being 2′ tall, you can step off of it pretty easily so this is also an optional step but one that I felt would make it feel safer. To create the railing, I attached 2 x 4’s between each of the posts using joist hangers. I painted the hangers flat black before installing them so they would blend in better with the deck.

For the pickets, I cut a 1″ previously painted board into 20″ long sections then used my jigsaw to make them 1 1/2″ wide. I sanded the wood to clean it up and give it a more rustic look. To install the pickets, I used a clamp to hold each one in place and secured it to the top and bottom rail with 1 1/4″ screws.

Step 7 – Staining

Time to stain! Luckily, I had stain on hand! I used Behr Transparent Wood Finish in clear. It’s not really ‘clear’, it’s ‘natural’. They changed the label from ‘clear’ to ‘natural’ after I bought this can a few years ago. Using a paintbrush, I applied one coat of stain to the railing, decking, and stairs. For the painted wood and cedar skirting, I applied Preserva Wood, which is actually clear.

Step 8 – Handrail

Even though the deck is only 2′ tall and there are only 3 steps, hubby requested that I add a handrail. To build the handrail, I temporarily attached a 2 x 4 to the side of the 2nd step using 2 1/2″ screws. I then clamped a 2 x 4 for a top rail to the post and the upright 2 x 4 to determine what height was needed. Hubby tested it and we made our decision. I then removed the 2 x 4 upright & cut it to the height needed. After that, I clamped the top rail to the post and marked the length then cut it to size before using screws to attach it to the 2 x 4 and the post. I followed the same process for the bottom rail.

I had old pallet boards from when I updated the potting bench and decided to use those for the pickets on the handrail. Using my jigsaw, I split the boards in half, sanded them, and attached them with screws. I then attached a 2 x 4 to the top rail. After seeing the finished handrail, I didn’t like the way the bottom rail looked with the last picket extending beyond it….so, I decided to add an extension. Did I think it would look good? No. But I had to try it anyway!

Using a little tool that a friend gave me – it’s called an Angleizer – I marked the angle of the bottom rail. Since I’d never used the tool before…and because I was really limited on wood….I clamped the new piece to the old one and manually marked the wood. I was thrilled to see that both of the marks were at the same angle! I attached the new piece with a screw into the last picket and also attached a flat metal connector plate on the underside between the bottom rail and the new piece. I’m so glad I took the time to ‘fix’ the bottom rail! It now looks complete.

Step 9 – Finishing touches

Using leftover wood from an indoor project, I made post footings to cover up where I used the jigsaw to cut around the posts. This is hemlock and was already stained and finished from the previous project. On the steps, I added a trim piece to protect the top of the cedar boards. I also added a little cast iron piece that used to be a candle holder to the post at the end of the deck. It’ll be a nice place to hang a wet towel. To complete the deck, hubby and I added a little lighting to the top of the posts. I already love sitting on the deck!

We bought the post solar lights at Home Depot. They are the perfect addition to the deck and look amazing at night! These little lights are super easy to install. They come with two screws that attach it to the top of a post.

For your convenience

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